Between a boat, mountains, and a forest that is disappearing

The sixth day of the Fundriding tour begins early—very early. The sun is still low over Koh Rong Samloem as the Fundriders pack their things and prepare to return to the mainland. But before the journey can continue, the first small challenge of the day awaits.

In the water in the morning – the way back to the boat

Since the large boat cannot maneuver close enough to the beach, it's time to swim.
The Fundriders wade and swim through the clear, warm water, while their luggage is transported separately on a small longtail boat to the larger transfer boat. It's an unusual start – and one that immediately brings smiles back to everyone's faces.

The subsequent crossing takes around 2.5 hours. Slowly, a completely different world appears on the horizon: the skyline of Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville's skyline – symbol of radical change

In recent years, Sihanoukville has changed more than almost any other city in Cambodia. Where once stood a modest coastal town, dozens of high-rise buildings, hotel complexes, and casinos now tower into the sky—many of them never completed.

The construction boom was largely driven by Chinese investors who wanted to create a new "Macau of Southeast Asia" here. Billions were poured into real estate, hotels, and casinos—often without a long-term plan, sometimes without regard for labor and environmental standards. When China banned online gambling in 2019, many projects came to an abrupt halt. What remained was:

  • building ruins

  • half-finished towers

  • abandoned construction sites

  • and a city that needs to reorganize itself

The contrast between luxury ambitions and reality is visible at first glance—and makes Sihanoukville one of the most ambivalent places in the country.

Back on the scooters – into the Kardamom Mountains

The scooters are unloaded at the port, reloaded, and started up. The tour now heads inland into the Cardamom Mountains —one of the last large rainforest regions in Southeast Asia.

Progress has also made its mark here:
A new paved road now connects Sihanoukville with Ou Saom. What used to take almost a whole day—partly over bumpy tracks—can now be done in a few hours. A gain in comfort, but not only that.

Large dams and reservoirs tower along the route. The information is confirmed:
Two hydroelectric power plants in the region are being built and operated by Chinese companies. They supply electricity, but also cause profound changes to ecosystems – another example of the complex relationships between development, dependencies, and nature.

Arrival in Ou Saom – a village in transition

Ou Saom is remote, surrounded by dense vegetation. A place that was once almost only accessible via dirt roads and has largely retained its character. The Fundriders stop here for an overnight stay.

In the afternoon, part of the group sets off with a local guide into the remaining rainforest.
But it quickly becomes apparent that the forest is shrinking year by year. Where dense jungle once stood, there are now clearings.

The reasons are obvious:

  • illegal logging, especially for valuable tropical woods

  • large plantations – especially banana plantations for export

  • economic pressure on local communities

What remains is a feeling somewhere between admiration for the beauty and concern about the pace of loss.

Dinner at a local restaurant – stories, conversation, settling in

The day ends in a small local inn.
There is rice, vegetables, meat, soups—simple, aromatic dishes, cooked as if for a family. The conversation at the table is lively: about the route, the landscape, the changes in the country, but also about the thoughts that inevitably arise on such a journey.

After a long day spent between the island, the road, and the rainforest, night falls early—because tomorrow the journey continues. Deeper into the country, closer to the encounters that are the heart of the trip.